Liberia to San Jose, Costa Rica

Havana, Cuba. What an experience. We had so much fun despite Maddie not feeling the greatest. met loads of very happy locals always willing to help out, everything was so cheap but now it was time to move on. 4am came about and we were up and ready to get on the plane to Liberia, Costa Rica. The ride was a little bumpy and it made it even worse for Maddie when we were on route for landing but it was to windy to land at the particular end of the runway. We quickly ascended again and made a few turns, much to Maddie’s nervous digest before making a steady landing. After passing through Customs, quite easily this time, we headed to the car rental desk, who then drove us to pick up our car for the next six days. A good inclusion was the GPS making life easier whilst driving through a foreign country.

After picking up the car we headed to our Hotel in Liberia, which was quite lovely, then made our way to some of the beaches on the Pacific Coast. Beaches I assumed would be white and sandy especially on the pacific coast but that was not the case. The sand was more like a black mud like substance and the beaches were certainly not crystal blue like the ones in Cuba. We had the afternoon to kill so we decided to visit a couple of beaches. First up was Panama Beach. As soon as we pulled up locals were offering their services including, paddle boats, Kayaking, Jetski but to no avail the price was well beyond the range we were looking for. We made our way around several more beaches before making a stop in Playa del Coco. Here we just chilled out and watched as the thick, dark storm clouds rolled in bellowing thunder off in the distance. The rain and storm did not last long. We strolled the main street and out of the blue a 1-2m Iguana was roaming the streets looking for somewhere to shelter or for food. The poor bugger tried numerous times to get into the stores due to the reflection of the windows. Not only that but I am sure he was a little scared as clusters of people started gathering around to take photo’s. The giant lizard had nowhere to go, could not go inside and people were stopping him from moving on. Eventually he passed by and moved on. 

Playa de Coco

The street markets had small knick knacks but nothing that really took our fancy so we headed to the bar on the beach for some food and couple of beverages. Just before we were going to return to Liberia I went off to take some photos while the girls went to the car a man approached them asking for a cigarette after saying no the man proceeded to demand the car be opened. Maddie came quickly toward me looking a bit frightened. As we pulled away in the car the man came running after the car and tried to stand in front of it but when he realised Maddie was not going to stop he quickly moved out of the way. Not a pleasant experience. But aside from that it was a good way to spend the afternoon before driving back to the hotel.

After a good night sleep we headed for La Fortuna and the Arenal Volcano. Starting out on the Pan American highway it was slow going as roadworks were constant along this road (this road being the amor highway between central and north america). After a turnoff we headed around La Fortuna Lake not before stopping at a German Bakery in one of the small towns. How could you not stop though, when every 5 minutes there was a sign saying stop for delicious pastries, awesome coffee’s etc etc. So we did. The pastry was delicious, it satisfied our hunger and we continued on the journey to La Fortuna around Laguna de Arenal. After a 4-5 hour drive we finally arrived in La Fortuna and checked in at our accommodation. A nice little place around 3km north of La Fortuna, surrounded by farms and a river just over the highway. Right, now we were here, what activities should we get up to? Bec wanted to go white water rafting and due to the amount of rain they had had it was the perfect opportunity. Maddie and I were not so keen and needed to find an alternative. We made our way into the little town and scoped out things to do. We searched around for a little before stumbling upon a Canadian born fellow by the name of Johnny. He had been living in Costa Rica for some time and brought wake boarding to La Fortuna around 8 years ago. The perfect spot in the dry months with the large lake so close by. But he was also very passionate about helping local business. He doesn’t take any commission from the purchase you make and all the money goes towards supporting the local businesses. So for us this was a definite a yes but we had to decide what to do. He gave us several options but the one for us was Zip Lining. We had already had a greta time in Whistler doing this so why not try it somewhere else. Just as we were sorting stuff out wouldn’t you know it, Steve Colton walks by. Somehow this bloke had made his way to La Fortuna with his friend Adam in a hire car. It was so good to catch up with a familiar face. We exchanged stories of our travels through Cuba and everything else in life that was going on over a couple of cold beverages. 

The main attraction for this town was the Arenal Volcano. So many photo’s of this wonder spurting out lava, erupting etc but for us it was a no go. The Volcano and unfortunately become dormant in 2010 and due to the wet season the cloud cover blocked our view of this amazing wonder for the whole time we were there. What a bummer.

After a few drinks we headed back to the hotel for what was to be a good nights rest. BOOOOOM, CRAAAAASH, GUUUSH, the biggest storm we had ever heard. The lightning strikes and claps of thunder felt as though they were right on top of the roof. We all thought it was going to cave in. Thankfully it didn’t and we woke the next day dry but a little weary due to a lack of sleep. We drove back into the town, parked the car and waited for our transport up to the Zip Line area. 

A quick 5 minute drive and we were at the starting point for the day. After waiting around for other guests to arrive we were then ready for the safety briefing on how to ride the zip line. Safety first right? apparently not a high priority in other countries. Unlike the Zip line in Whistler we had to break ourselves with a thick leather glove. The thought was a little scary but we were up for the challenge. The briefing completed and we made the 20min tractor journey along the bumpy dirt track to the start of the zip lines. We were completing the 12 lines whilst others were only doing 7. We left the people doing the 7 behind and headed up into the jungle on a 10 minute walk to begin.

Now remember what I said about safety. So in Whistler and I am sure in Australia it would be similar, you would wait for one person on the zip line to end before sending the next person down, correct? Well not in Costa Rica. Once you were about half way down the next person was already zipping behind you on their way in to the finish. So you had to quickly make your way in, unstrap, and move as fast as you could before the next person would ram you right from behind. A couple of times the guides would pull in really code a scare the absolute shit out of you, but it was all fun and games to them. The view from the zip lines was amazing and some of the waterfalls were incredible. Had we of opted to we could have repelled down an 80m waterfall, however this did also involve climbing back up again on a rope ladder. Bugger that! We continued on the zip lines keeping our eyes out for native wildlife including the Toucan. Luckily enough we were able to see a pair of Toucans and learn some interesting facts. Did you know that the Toucan has to be friends with all the other Toucans as their beaks are so long they are unable to clean themselves like other birds. So the Toucans have it right, love one another otherwise your fucked. On the contrary they only have to be friends with their own kind because they are actually pretty deadly and their main diet includes smaller birds from around the region. Meanies. 

You can just see the Zip Line to the left. This one headed right over the top of the Waterfall in the distance

After the 12 zip lines we then headed into one of the native tribes housing establishments from around the area. They gave us a taste of one of their drinks and showed off some of their artwork using plywood which they carve animals and objects into before painting them with bright colours. This tribe we were told does not indulge in western culture such as drinking, or smoking and continue to live around 1 hour from La Fortuna. 

We made our way back to the start point before heading back up in the tractor to hike towards La Fortuna Waterfall. Upon arriving back at the start point there was Steve and Adam who were partaking in the repelling. Not a bad way to spend the afternoon. 

Once back up the top we hiked for around 30 minutes to the waterfall which was gushing and overflowing with water. A place in the dry season where you could go swimming today was not our day. We could see others swimming in the river but we had no idea how to get there. Apparently they were from another tour group and on private property. We got the camera out, took some snaps of the waterfall before making our way back to the tractor and heading down. 

La Fortuna Waterfall

At the start point we picked up our videos and photo’s of the days expedition while we were waiting for a bus back in to town we wandered around the gardens and into the butterfly and frog house. Inside there were some of the most colourful frogs I have ever seen and all poisonous. Blue Jean frogs were the only frogs we saw. Their blue legs and bright red body’s were easy to spot in the green leaves. There were meant to be other species but not today. Unfortunately there is always one noisy and obnoxious person who spoils the tranquility but today there were several. Loud people banging the doors when they walk in, not paying attention to where they are stepping and in this case letting one of the frogs out of the enclosure. You would think they would learn when we notified them they had let a frog out, but no. They continued this same behaviour throughout the butterfly enclosure. I understand it is cool to see but you try relaxing in your home with some moron running in screaming and banging doors. Not so fun.

Blue Jeans Poison Dart Frog

Butterflies, same species, the difference between open and closed

We made our way back to our accommodation, showered and smelling nice we headed into La Fortuna for some dinner with Steve and Adam. Also planning for the next day needed to be done. Bec had 100% booked in the white water rafting but Maddie and I went for something a little more relaxing. A cruise down Rio Frio in the Slivestre Cańo Negro, a natural wildlife habitat where we would possibly get to see the likes of Spider, Howler and Capuchin monkeys as well as other native wildlife. 

Another good catch up with Steve and Adam before catching some Zzz’s for the long day tomorrow. 

An early pick up saw the tour bus arrive around 7:45-8am. We jumped on the bus eager and ready to go. BANG, SCRATCH…. I turn around and see Maddie’s head in her hands. She looks up in disbelief and says, “That’s our car”. My heart sinks as I look out the window of the bus to find the driver had reversed into the rear of our vehicle. We were already strapped for cash and an insurance bill to cover the damage would leave us possibly in no man’s land. The driver did not speak much english, brilliant. However the tour guide rang his boss and we sorted something out. We were not sure what yet but hopefully it was sorted. Apparently when an accident occurs, you have to leave the vehicles in the same position until the police and insurance company show up to take photos. We did not want to hold the group up so what we assumed was later on that afternoon we would re-enact the scenario and wait for police etc. We continued on the tour but our stomachs were certainly not in the right spot at that point in time for the tour. 

However our aim for the day. To see a SLOTH. We had everything crossed.

We left Bec and headed north about one and a half hours to where we would start the boat ride along the river. A quick bite to eat, of course bread, so good for Maddie, before we jumped on the boat and headed north along the river. It wasn’t long before our first wildlife encounter. First on the list was the Jesus Lizard. Named rightly so as it can run on water. We spotted two and the boat driver made his way cautiously towards the animal before…… WHOOSH away it went along the water. Quite a funny sight to see their little legs motoring like a cartoon character across the water.

The boat putted along the river at a steady pace, every eye on the boat keeping an eye and ear out for any wildlife. We saw more than we could of imagined and in their natural habitat. It was awesome. Spider monkeys dangly in the trees from their long tails. As they were a very active animal and jumped from tree to tree sometimes at large distances, evolution has evolved them to not have a thumb and only four fingers with their tail as an extra limb. Continuing to jump from tree to tree the monkeys used to break their thumbs frequently and hence the no thumb. Parents and babies scuttled around the trees not before we were able to get some close ups from the boat. 

Spider Monkey

Now onto the Capuchin. A very active monkey and also super clever as it hides away in the bushes and keeps to themselves. The sad thing about this monkey as because they are so clever and very trainable is often caught and used on the black market for pick pocketing and drug deals. Not a great life for the monkey but we felt so privileged to see these little guys in the wild. 

Capuchin

Capuchin

Capuchin

Cruising along the river the guide pointed out something very small on a large dead tree branch. As we got closer it moved side to side. It was one of the world’s smallest bats named the long nose bat. It blended in very well with the tree branch and the reason for it’s group movement was that if predators came by it would look like a snake and the predator may retreat. Quite a clever little animal.

Long Nose Bat

In the distance we could hear a strange noise. The cross between a dog barking and a whale calling. Not the best description but the best I can come up with. This was the Howler Monkey. We could hear them but not yet see them. The reason for this is they are the second loudest animal on the planet, second to that of the blue whale. The closer we got the louder the noise become and after turning around a corner there they were, a family of Howler monkeys sitting in the tree. Our guide was very good at making the same noise, plenty of practice, the closer we got the more vocal the dominant male became. He was amazing, not the tour guide, the monkey. His loud guttural howl bellowed as his throat puffed out telling us to move back and not get to close to his and his families territory. We stood in ore of this magnificent creature before moving on.

Howler Monkey

Howler Monkey

Not moving on to far though as the further north you go, you would cross into Nicaragua. Now apparently these two countries are not the best of friends, so we turned around and headed back to port for lunch. Along the way we saw some native birds and caymans lounging about in the sun  and yet still no SLOTH. This creature only moves fro around 40 minutes to 2 hours per day and only when they need to. So very difficult to see and they blend in well with the trees as they look like a large birds nest. We finished the tour viewing two Albino spider monkeys red in colour. They say you learn something new everyday and today we did. Albino means lack of Pigment hence the reason why these monkeys are red. Also the Spider monkey has large white scrotums. Due to the animal being black, if it’s privates were also this colour, it would get to hot and be sterile. This is why their privates are white to keep the sperm cool and fertile. Fucking Love Science, right?

Rio Frito

Iguana

Albino Spider

Cayman

We pulled into port, ate lunch and then made the journey back. Disappointed in not seeing a Sloth, we all thought hopes were lost. The weather started to close in and the rain began. What chance have we got of seeing a Sloth with the rain and their already difficult appearance. But would’t you know it, luck or laziness on the Sloth’s behalf was on our side. High up in a tree pretty close to the highway there it was. A lazy sloth just chilling in the tree. Difficult to spot but there it was. not the close up we were hoping for but a sighting. Our day was complete for animal viewings. Now it was time to sort out the car.

Sloth. You can just see him curled up in the tree

After dropping us off the tour company said that they needed to drop off all the other passengers before washing the vehicle and then returning later to re-enact the ding scenario. Instead of waiting we made our way to the tour operators and waited, and waited, and waited for them to finish cleaning the bus before making our way back to the hostel for the re-enactment. We placed the bus in a similar position to the mornings disaster and made a phone call to the police and insurance companies. So we waited and waited and waited and waited. 2 hours or so passed before the police/traffic officer arrived to asses the damage. He took some photos, made a statement and was on his way. Little did we know that we had to wait not only for the tour companies insurance but our hire companies insurance. Trouble was our insurance companies closest man for the job was at least and hour away. So once again we waited and waited and waited. Another 1 to 2 hours passed before both insurance guys arrived roughly at the same time. They sorted out the paperwork and were both on the way. Keeping our fingers crossed we hoped it had all been properly dealt with and we could drop the car off with no problems,

After waiting a while we ordered some take away pizza which was pretty damn good. We wrapped up the left overs for the car ride to San Jose and went to bed. 

Red Eye Tree Frog

We set off relatively early and made our way back onto the Pan American Highway headed straight for San Jose. We arrived in good time, fuelled up the car and dropped it off at the rental company. On inspection they man at the desk was not too impressed with the scratches. We gave him the forms of the report and he said we would be billed for the damage. Wait a second, it was not our fault and we thought our insurance had covered it. Apparently not and after much deliberations and a little arguing that we were not going to pay, he seemed relatively happy that it was only scratches, the car was pretty scratched up to begin with and said we would not be paying for any damage. Phew. Lucky.

Now that we had dropped off the car it was time to make our way to Panama City. We walked s few blocks to the bus station and proceeded to the desk. Trés tickets to Panama City por favour (please). The man behind the desk proceeds to ask if we have an exit ticket from Panama. We didn't of course and he kindly informs us that not only do you need an exit ticket but a full itinerary of your trip all the way back to Australia. Seems kind of odd but apparently it changes day to day for the border crossings and we didn’t want to risk it. We opted out of Panama city and now needed to find accommodation and flights to Lima, Peru. 

Finding accommodation in San Jose was easy and so were the flights. The only issue with flights were they were technically way out of our price bracket. However we had no choice. We sucked it up and booked tickets for Lima.

Chilling out at the Hostel we made our way down to the local supermarket for some cheese and nibbles. Also a bottle of Vodka. We sat around the lounge of the Hostel, eating drinking and being merry whilst meeting some other guests in the process. One guest in particular Ian was a consultant for a popular search engine. He said we could be 50% right if we guessed. So he either worked for Google or Bing. We suspected Google. Not sure why you have to keep that a secret but, oh well. A nice guy we chatted, played pool and got pretty drunk considering we had to go back to the liquor store to buy more Vodka. The guys at reception informed us that it was ladies night at one of the local clubs. Bec and I decided to kick on and party while Maddie crashed in bed. Not sure what time Bec and I arrived home but the next day feeling a little seedy, probably still drunk, We packed our bags, sat in the lobby and waited for the taxi to the airport. Next stop Lima, Peru and venture towards Machu Picchu. Super excited.

Peace Out

Love Andy and Maddie