Liberia to San Jose, Costa Rica

Havana, Cuba. What an experience. We had so much fun despite Maddie not feeling the greatest. met loads of very happy locals always willing to help out, everything was so cheap but now it was time to move on. 4am came about and we were up and ready to get on the plane to Liberia, Costa Rica. The ride was a little bumpy and it made it even worse for Maddie when we were on route for landing but it was to windy to land at the particular end of the runway. We quickly ascended again and made a few turns, much to Maddie’s nervous digest before making a steady landing. After passing through Customs, quite easily this time, we headed to the car rental desk, who then drove us to pick up our car for the next six days. A good inclusion was the GPS making life easier whilst driving through a foreign country.

After picking up the car we headed to our Hotel in Liberia, which was quite lovely, then made our way to some of the beaches on the Pacific Coast. Beaches I assumed would be white and sandy especially on the pacific coast but that was not the case. The sand was more like a black mud like substance and the beaches were certainly not crystal blue like the ones in Cuba. We had the afternoon to kill so we decided to visit a couple of beaches. First up was Panama Beach. As soon as we pulled up locals were offering their services including, paddle boats, Kayaking, Jetski but to no avail the price was well beyond the range we were looking for. We made our way around several more beaches before making a stop in Playa del Coco. Here we just chilled out and watched as the thick, dark storm clouds rolled in bellowing thunder off in the distance. The rain and storm did not last long. We strolled the main street and out of the blue a 1-2m Iguana was roaming the streets looking for somewhere to shelter or for food. The poor bugger tried numerous times to get into the stores due to the reflection of the windows. Not only that but I am sure he was a little scared as clusters of people started gathering around to take photo’s. The giant lizard had nowhere to go, could not go inside and people were stopping him from moving on. Eventually he passed by and moved on. 

Playa de Coco

The street markets had small knick knacks but nothing that really took our fancy so we headed to the bar on the beach for some food and couple of beverages. Just before we were going to return to Liberia I went off to take some photos while the girls went to the car a man approached them asking for a cigarette after saying no the man proceeded to demand the car be opened. Maddie came quickly toward me looking a bit frightened. As we pulled away in the car the man came running after the car and tried to stand in front of it but when he realised Maddie was not going to stop he quickly moved out of the way. Not a pleasant experience. But aside from that it was a good way to spend the afternoon before driving back to the hotel.

After a good night sleep we headed for La Fortuna and the Arenal Volcano. Starting out on the Pan American highway it was slow going as roadworks were constant along this road (this road being the amor highway between central and north america). After a turnoff we headed around La Fortuna Lake not before stopping at a German Bakery in one of the small towns. How could you not stop though, when every 5 minutes there was a sign saying stop for delicious pastries, awesome coffee’s etc etc. So we did. The pastry was delicious, it satisfied our hunger and we continued on the journey to La Fortuna around Laguna de Arenal. After a 4-5 hour drive we finally arrived in La Fortuna and checked in at our accommodation. A nice little place around 3km north of La Fortuna, surrounded by farms and a river just over the highway. Right, now we were here, what activities should we get up to? Bec wanted to go white water rafting and due to the amount of rain they had had it was the perfect opportunity. Maddie and I were not so keen and needed to find an alternative. We made our way into the little town and scoped out things to do. We searched around for a little before stumbling upon a Canadian born fellow by the name of Johnny. He had been living in Costa Rica for some time and brought wake boarding to La Fortuna around 8 years ago. The perfect spot in the dry months with the large lake so close by. But he was also very passionate about helping local business. He doesn’t take any commission from the purchase you make and all the money goes towards supporting the local businesses. So for us this was a definite a yes but we had to decide what to do. He gave us several options but the one for us was Zip Lining. We had already had a greta time in Whistler doing this so why not try it somewhere else. Just as we were sorting stuff out wouldn’t you know it, Steve Colton walks by. Somehow this bloke had made his way to La Fortuna with his friend Adam in a hire car. It was so good to catch up with a familiar face. We exchanged stories of our travels through Cuba and everything else in life that was going on over a couple of cold beverages. 

The main attraction for this town was the Arenal Volcano. So many photo’s of this wonder spurting out lava, erupting etc but for us it was a no go. The Volcano and unfortunately become dormant in 2010 and due to the wet season the cloud cover blocked our view of this amazing wonder for the whole time we were there. What a bummer.

After a few drinks we headed back to the hotel for what was to be a good nights rest. BOOOOOM, CRAAAAASH, GUUUSH, the biggest storm we had ever heard. The lightning strikes and claps of thunder felt as though they were right on top of the roof. We all thought it was going to cave in. Thankfully it didn’t and we woke the next day dry but a little weary due to a lack of sleep. We drove back into the town, parked the car and waited for our transport up to the Zip Line area. 

A quick 5 minute drive and we were at the starting point for the day. After waiting around for other guests to arrive we were then ready for the safety briefing on how to ride the zip line. Safety first right? apparently not a high priority in other countries. Unlike the Zip line in Whistler we had to break ourselves with a thick leather glove. The thought was a little scary but we were up for the challenge. The briefing completed and we made the 20min tractor journey along the bumpy dirt track to the start of the zip lines. We were completing the 12 lines whilst others were only doing 7. We left the people doing the 7 behind and headed up into the jungle on a 10 minute walk to begin.

Now remember what I said about safety. So in Whistler and I am sure in Australia it would be similar, you would wait for one person on the zip line to end before sending the next person down, correct? Well not in Costa Rica. Once you were about half way down the next person was already zipping behind you on their way in to the finish. So you had to quickly make your way in, unstrap, and move as fast as you could before the next person would ram you right from behind. A couple of times the guides would pull in really code a scare the absolute shit out of you, but it was all fun and games to them. The view from the zip lines was amazing and some of the waterfalls were incredible. Had we of opted to we could have repelled down an 80m waterfall, however this did also involve climbing back up again on a rope ladder. Bugger that! We continued on the zip lines keeping our eyes out for native wildlife including the Toucan. Luckily enough we were able to see a pair of Toucans and learn some interesting facts. Did you know that the Toucan has to be friends with all the other Toucans as their beaks are so long they are unable to clean themselves like other birds. So the Toucans have it right, love one another otherwise your fucked. On the contrary they only have to be friends with their own kind because they are actually pretty deadly and their main diet includes smaller birds from around the region. Meanies. 

You can just see the Zip Line to the left. This one headed right over the top of the Waterfall in the distance

After the 12 zip lines we then headed into one of the native tribes housing establishments from around the area. They gave us a taste of one of their drinks and showed off some of their artwork using plywood which they carve animals and objects into before painting them with bright colours. This tribe we were told does not indulge in western culture such as drinking, or smoking and continue to live around 1 hour from La Fortuna. 

We made our way back to the start point before heading back up in the tractor to hike towards La Fortuna Waterfall. Upon arriving back at the start point there was Steve and Adam who were partaking in the repelling. Not a bad way to spend the afternoon. 

Once back up the top we hiked for around 30 minutes to the waterfall which was gushing and overflowing with water. A place in the dry season where you could go swimming today was not our day. We could see others swimming in the river but we had no idea how to get there. Apparently they were from another tour group and on private property. We got the camera out, took some snaps of the waterfall before making our way back to the tractor and heading down. 

La Fortuna Waterfall

At the start point we picked up our videos and photo’s of the days expedition while we were waiting for a bus back in to town we wandered around the gardens and into the butterfly and frog house. Inside there were some of the most colourful frogs I have ever seen and all poisonous. Blue Jean frogs were the only frogs we saw. Their blue legs and bright red body’s were easy to spot in the green leaves. There were meant to be other species but not today. Unfortunately there is always one noisy and obnoxious person who spoils the tranquility but today there were several. Loud people banging the doors when they walk in, not paying attention to where they are stepping and in this case letting one of the frogs out of the enclosure. You would think they would learn when we notified them they had let a frog out, but no. They continued this same behaviour throughout the butterfly enclosure. I understand it is cool to see but you try relaxing in your home with some moron running in screaming and banging doors. Not so fun.

Blue Jeans Poison Dart Frog

Butterflies, same species, the difference between open and closed

We made our way back to our accommodation, showered and smelling nice we headed into La Fortuna for some dinner with Steve and Adam. Also planning for the next day needed to be done. Bec had 100% booked in the white water rafting but Maddie and I went for something a little more relaxing. A cruise down Rio Frio in the Slivestre Cańo Negro, a natural wildlife habitat where we would possibly get to see the likes of Spider, Howler and Capuchin monkeys as well as other native wildlife. 

Another good catch up with Steve and Adam before catching some Zzz’s for the long day tomorrow. 

An early pick up saw the tour bus arrive around 7:45-8am. We jumped on the bus eager and ready to go. BANG, SCRATCH…. I turn around and see Maddie’s head in her hands. She looks up in disbelief and says, “That’s our car”. My heart sinks as I look out the window of the bus to find the driver had reversed into the rear of our vehicle. We were already strapped for cash and an insurance bill to cover the damage would leave us possibly in no man’s land. The driver did not speak much english, brilliant. However the tour guide rang his boss and we sorted something out. We were not sure what yet but hopefully it was sorted. Apparently when an accident occurs, you have to leave the vehicles in the same position until the police and insurance company show up to take photos. We did not want to hold the group up so what we assumed was later on that afternoon we would re-enact the scenario and wait for police etc. We continued on the tour but our stomachs were certainly not in the right spot at that point in time for the tour. 

However our aim for the day. To see a SLOTH. We had everything crossed.

We left Bec and headed north about one and a half hours to where we would start the boat ride along the river. A quick bite to eat, of course bread, so good for Maddie, before we jumped on the boat and headed north along the river. It wasn’t long before our first wildlife encounter. First on the list was the Jesus Lizard. Named rightly so as it can run on water. We spotted two and the boat driver made his way cautiously towards the animal before…… WHOOSH away it went along the water. Quite a funny sight to see their little legs motoring like a cartoon character across the water.

The boat putted along the river at a steady pace, every eye on the boat keeping an eye and ear out for any wildlife. We saw more than we could of imagined and in their natural habitat. It was awesome. Spider monkeys dangly in the trees from their long tails. As they were a very active animal and jumped from tree to tree sometimes at large distances, evolution has evolved them to not have a thumb and only four fingers with their tail as an extra limb. Continuing to jump from tree to tree the monkeys used to break their thumbs frequently and hence the no thumb. Parents and babies scuttled around the trees not before we were able to get some close ups from the boat. 

Spider Monkey

Now onto the Capuchin. A very active monkey and also super clever as it hides away in the bushes and keeps to themselves. The sad thing about this monkey as because they are so clever and very trainable is often caught and used on the black market for pick pocketing and drug deals. Not a great life for the monkey but we felt so privileged to see these little guys in the wild. 

Capuchin

Capuchin

Capuchin

Cruising along the river the guide pointed out something very small on a large dead tree branch. As we got closer it moved side to side. It was one of the world’s smallest bats named the long nose bat. It blended in very well with the tree branch and the reason for it’s group movement was that if predators came by it would look like a snake and the predator may retreat. Quite a clever little animal.

Long Nose Bat

In the distance we could hear a strange noise. The cross between a dog barking and a whale calling. Not the best description but the best I can come up with. This was the Howler Monkey. We could hear them but not yet see them. The reason for this is they are the second loudest animal on the planet, second to that of the blue whale. The closer we got the louder the noise become and after turning around a corner there they were, a family of Howler monkeys sitting in the tree. Our guide was very good at making the same noise, plenty of practice, the closer we got the more vocal the dominant male became. He was amazing, not the tour guide, the monkey. His loud guttural howl bellowed as his throat puffed out telling us to move back and not get to close to his and his families territory. We stood in ore of this magnificent creature before moving on.

Howler Monkey

Howler Monkey

Not moving on to far though as the further north you go, you would cross into Nicaragua. Now apparently these two countries are not the best of friends, so we turned around and headed back to port for lunch. Along the way we saw some native birds and caymans lounging about in the sun  and yet still no SLOTH. This creature only moves fro around 40 minutes to 2 hours per day and only when they need to. So very difficult to see and they blend in well with the trees as they look like a large birds nest. We finished the tour viewing two Albino spider monkeys red in colour. They say you learn something new everyday and today we did. Albino means lack of Pigment hence the reason why these monkeys are red. Also the Spider monkey has large white scrotums. Due to the animal being black, if it’s privates were also this colour, it would get to hot and be sterile. This is why their privates are white to keep the sperm cool and fertile. Fucking Love Science, right?

Rio Frito

Iguana

Albino Spider

Cayman

We pulled into port, ate lunch and then made the journey back. Disappointed in not seeing a Sloth, we all thought hopes were lost. The weather started to close in and the rain began. What chance have we got of seeing a Sloth with the rain and their already difficult appearance. But would’t you know it, luck or laziness on the Sloth’s behalf was on our side. High up in a tree pretty close to the highway there it was. A lazy sloth just chilling in the tree. Difficult to spot but there it was. not the close up we were hoping for but a sighting. Our day was complete for animal viewings. Now it was time to sort out the car.

Sloth. You can just see him curled up in the tree

After dropping us off the tour company said that they needed to drop off all the other passengers before washing the vehicle and then returning later to re-enact the ding scenario. Instead of waiting we made our way to the tour operators and waited, and waited, and waited for them to finish cleaning the bus before making our way back to the hostel for the re-enactment. We placed the bus in a similar position to the mornings disaster and made a phone call to the police and insurance companies. So we waited and waited and waited and waited. 2 hours or so passed before the police/traffic officer arrived to asses the damage. He took some photos, made a statement and was on his way. Little did we know that we had to wait not only for the tour companies insurance but our hire companies insurance. Trouble was our insurance companies closest man for the job was at least and hour away. So once again we waited and waited and waited. Another 1 to 2 hours passed before both insurance guys arrived roughly at the same time. They sorted out the paperwork and were both on the way. Keeping our fingers crossed we hoped it had all been properly dealt with and we could drop the car off with no problems,

After waiting a while we ordered some take away pizza which was pretty damn good. We wrapped up the left overs for the car ride to San Jose and went to bed. 

Red Eye Tree Frog

We set off relatively early and made our way back onto the Pan American Highway headed straight for San Jose. We arrived in good time, fuelled up the car and dropped it off at the rental company. On inspection they man at the desk was not too impressed with the scratches. We gave him the forms of the report and he said we would be billed for the damage. Wait a second, it was not our fault and we thought our insurance had covered it. Apparently not and after much deliberations and a little arguing that we were not going to pay, he seemed relatively happy that it was only scratches, the car was pretty scratched up to begin with and said we would not be paying for any damage. Phew. Lucky.

Now that we had dropped off the car it was time to make our way to Panama City. We walked s few blocks to the bus station and proceeded to the desk. Trés tickets to Panama City por favour (please). The man behind the desk proceeds to ask if we have an exit ticket from Panama. We didn't of course and he kindly informs us that not only do you need an exit ticket but a full itinerary of your trip all the way back to Australia. Seems kind of odd but apparently it changes day to day for the border crossings and we didn’t want to risk it. We opted out of Panama city and now needed to find accommodation and flights to Lima, Peru. 

Finding accommodation in San Jose was easy and so were the flights. The only issue with flights were they were technically way out of our price bracket. However we had no choice. We sucked it up and booked tickets for Lima.

Chilling out at the Hostel we made our way down to the local supermarket for some cheese and nibbles. Also a bottle of Vodka. We sat around the lounge of the Hostel, eating drinking and being merry whilst meeting some other guests in the process. One guest in particular Ian was a consultant for a popular search engine. He said we could be 50% right if we guessed. So he either worked for Google or Bing. We suspected Google. Not sure why you have to keep that a secret but, oh well. A nice guy we chatted, played pool and got pretty drunk considering we had to go back to the liquor store to buy more Vodka. The guys at reception informed us that it was ladies night at one of the local clubs. Bec and I decided to kick on and party while Maddie crashed in bed. Not sure what time Bec and I arrived home but the next day feeling a little seedy, probably still drunk, We packed our bags, sat in the lobby and waited for the taxi to the airport. Next stop Lima, Peru and venture towards Machu Picchu. Super excited.

Peace Out

Love Andy and Maddie

Havana, Cuba

Wow, Mexico city had been amazing. SO much culture, amazing food and definitely amazing people. Don’t believe what people tell you when they say Mexico City is one of the most dangerous cities in the world, so is Sydney if you’re in the wrong suburb at the wrong time of time. On the spur of the moment we decided to see Cuba and today pretty early 830am we were headed for La Havana Cuba, Cubana Airlines and Cuba, Here we Go.

We flew over the Gulf of Mexico and before you knew it we were over the island of Cuba and touching down in La Havana. Steve Colton one of our very good friends from back in Cairns was also staying in Cuba but leaving that day and we had a small window of opportunity to catch up with him and we were on a mission. In and out of customs was the plan, rush to accommodation and head to see Steve for a catch up. Plan Fail…………..

Not only did we not get the in and out of customs we had hoped for but one border control official definitely had his sights on me. From the moment we got off the plan he was eyeballing me watching my every move. Firstly he moved towards me and called me over for a brief chat and had Bec and Maddie come over also. We believed he would not have blinked an eye towards them. A couple of questions about where we were from, how long we were staying in Cuba and the purpose of our trip he sent us on our way to collect our bags. In our minds he was done with us and we would be able to continue on our merry way. This was not the case. The man continued to keep a very close eye on me while waiting for our bags. Not the fastest process in the world and after waiting around 15-20 minutes our bags sprung out of the shoot and we placed them on a trolley headed for the door. Boom!!!!! there was another official sent over by the previous man to ask further questions about our bags and our intended plans in Cuba. We were still having difficulty with our spanish and the border security lady was not great with her english but was better than our spanish that’s for sure. She grilled me and turned me a few times keeping me warm and sweating a little, before we think she received the answers she was looking for. Asking about why do I have a professional camera, why and who are the two girls I’m travelling with, do I have a computer and hard drive? She looked slightly confused when we told her we would be taking photo’s for memories. I don’t really see how that is suspicious but maybe I was a porn photographer, in another life maybe. However from what people had told us if you’re white and have a beard they believe you may be hiding something and go straight for you. Time was ticking by, Steve would soon be leaving and we were yet to leave the airport. We were out the doors of customs and into the main departure area of the airport. We hailed down a taxi guy, asked how much the taxi would be and made our way to the ATM for some cash, money. EEEEEERRRR no cash money. WHAT THE HELL. ATM would not accept either of our cards so getting money out was going to be very difficult. Our first impression of Cuba so far, not having fun.

We exchange what money we had left over in US dollars and Mexican Pesos and in total we had $45. Assuming the taxi would be about $30 we jumped in the little yellow cab and made our way towards our accommodation in Old Havana. The meter continued to run, we had no GPS and no idea how how away the accommodation was. We were zipping through streets and seemed to be still no closer. The meter kept ticking over $35, $38, $42, shit shit shit.. We gave the Taxi driver the $45 we had and he stopped at the end of a street, pointed us down the street and we started walking. Please don’t be to far away we all thought as it was super humid and around 26 or 27 degrees. 

After stepping out of the car, it is as everyone says. You feel like you have stepped inside a time machine, headed back to the fifties and time has stood still for nearly 60 years. Due to the embargo of the Americans in the late 1950’s early 1960’s no trade has been done with the US for over 50 years. However there are plenty of Japanese and Korean imported cars and equipment just nothing from the USA. The old Chevvies or Cadillacs have been converted into Taxi’s and some are done up to the nines. These ones are more expensive to travel in but still a fun ride if you have the cash. The streets are broken down and the buildings in some areas, especially Old Havana look like they have not been touched for e very long time. Cars puff out smoke and rubbish and rubble lie in the streets but no-one seems to care to much and just continue with their party attitude lives with big smiles on their faces.

Old American Cars

The revolution obviously played a major role in shaping Cuba as to what it is today and it continues on strong as ever. Posters of Fidel and Che are all over the streets, on t-shirts, fridge magnets, hats and much more. Little did we know that the week before we arrived Vladamir Putin the president of Russia was in Cuba paying off all their debt as the word on the street is that Russia want to put a Naval base somewhere in Cuba. Oh, Oh theres trouble.

A small knock on a door we assumed was our accommodation and the friendliest of welcomes from our house host Maritza.

Many people in Cuba have converted their houses into backpacker style hostels to make an extra income or benefits including better hot water, and electricity. These places are known as Casa Particulares (Particular houses).  After being shown around the house and settled our bags down time had passed us by and seeing Steve was unfortunately not going to happen on this particular day. But as good friends always do there will be somewhere in the world where we will se each other. 

First priority Money. The thing that apparently makes the world go round was making our heads go round and causing our world to basically stop. We really wanted to chill, have a beer and watch the world cup finale. As we were searching for ATM’s or a bank we hear a voice “where are you guys from?” We all look and see and tall, Cuban gentleman standing outside a cafe inviting us to come over and speak with him. We explain that we are Australian and his response was “ Ah Kangaroo, Skippy”. Skippy, really in Cuba that’s amazing. Continuing on, the man introduced himself as Alesis/Alexis and asked what our plans were in Cuba etc. He then offered to show us where some ATM’s were and even the bank (the only one open on a Sunday in Cuba) if we needed it. He also offered free (yeah that’s right, free) tourist advice on places to go. Yeah it was free but like other places we have travelled there is always a price. 

Cuban people have two different currencies, the CUC and the Peso. The CUC is one to one with American dollars and also worth 25 pesos. Pesos are general used for eating at family run restaurants and buying food etc and the CUC is for more of the touristy stuff and taxi’s. 

So the price for Cuban people was one of two things. For Alexis is was that maybe on the off chance we would come back and eat at his friends restaurant and he may get some sort of commission out of it or you give him a couple of CUC for his trouble and it goes a long long way.

So he showed us some ATM’s still no luck and we were running out of options. Not only that but the world cup final was on and we were super keen to see the game. So after no luck from the ATM we headed back to the Casa Particulares to watch the game as we couldn’t even sit in a cafe.

After watching the game we headed to the only bank that was open on a Sunday and wouldn’t you know it, right before we get there they close the doors. So….. what to do know. We have no money, no food and we were all getting kinda hungry. Desperate times could for desperate measure. With a heart of gold our host Maritza lent us $10 CUC and took us to a small eatery in a house around the corner. Yep $10CUC can go a very long way in a place like this. We ate a full meal, with rice, beans and meat for 35 Pesos each so a total cost of around $3. The cheapest and best food we have had so far on the trip. We then headed down towards the promenade which runs along the north side of Havana. In search of ice cream a young gentlemen was sitting on the wall of the Malećon, an 8km stretch of seawall, road and esplanade heading north of the city, with two girls and an ice cream. 

The Malecon

We asked him as best we could in spanish where we could get some ice cream. The kind young fellow took me straight over the road to a small café/bar where he helped and bargained a cheaper price for a tub of ice cream. We attempted to have a conversation with this young guy, Harold as he stated his name was, but unfortunately his english was about as good as our spanish so we didn’t get very far. We left him and his two friends before heading along to watch the sunset somewhere along the promenade. But it wasn’t long before we were chased down by another fellow asking where we are from and what we were doing in Cuba. This guy did come across a little creepy as he stated that I could buy or have a cuban woman for $10 CUC and if the deal went ahead he could have Maddie and Bec as they were both beautiful with gorgeous eyes. We quickly said “No, Gracias” and headed in the opposite direction not before attempting to steel my hat.

With our bellies full we headed back home and pondered on how we could manage to find some funds and activities for our time in Cuba. 

We headed straight to the bank in hope of being able to get money out, by using our passports instead of just inserting the card into the ATM. The trouble with the ATM’s was that they are all run by the same company so if one didn’t work, none of them worked. Heading into the bank with hope Andy came out with a grim look on his face and also no money. However Bec on the other hand was successful so at least we had some form on money until heading into Costa Rica. 

Wherever we went and all along the way the Cuban people would stop us in the street, ask us where we’re from, where we’re going, would we like cuban cigars etc etc. Although it continually happened their positive attitude and smiles on their faces as we walked past made up for the constant stoppages. Everyone was always in party mode and today it was time to head to the beach. After making our way back to the house we collected our beach attire and headed back to the bus that was a $5 CUC round trip per person to Santa Maria Tropicoco. Arriving at the bus terminal and gentleman yells out “ TAXI TAXI” calls us over and asks where we were heading to. We reply “The beach” but we are taking the bus. He states that if we pay $10 CUC, an older style taxi cab could take us to the beach. So why the hell not..

Across the street from us another gentlemen offered us a 1 hour tour of the city in a horse and cart. A generous offer but non the less we still opted for the beach. In the main square of the city there were many men shouting and having what seemed to be a heated discussion over something. The man with the horse and cart asked us if we knew what these men were yelling about. Of course we didn’t so he went on to inform us that all these men were here, at this point, around the same time each day discussing baseball. A very popular pastime in Cuba and still producing some very good players in the MLB.

Jumping in the old chevy we headed 25-30 minutes, slightly east of Havana on our way to Santa Maria Tropicoco beach. It was beautiful. We jumped (literally) over the white and very hot sand down towards the beach. When we finally hit the beach the water was crystal clear and amazingly blue the further out you went towards the ocean. Being greated by a cuban gentleman on the beach he showed us a couple of options of umbrellas. We opted for the cheaper option but it provided us with some needed shade from the sun after cooling off in the water. The water was so inviting and being on the Caribbean side it was so warm. Everyone around the beach was having a great time. People were swimming, on peddle boats, throwing each other in the air off their shoulders and most people just soaking up the warm summer sun. 

Santa Maria Tropicoco

We spent a good couple of hours at the beach before heading back to La Havana once again in an older style taxi for the small price of $10 CUC. The beach had been lovely but the sun was still scorching down on our skin so we headed back to the house and chilled out in the air con of our room. 

The area where we were staying had a few little restaurants around so we strolled the streets and found a nice place to eat. Although a little on the expensive side once again another meal which we could not fault. Perfectly cooked with a great taste. 

Waking the next day the stomach bug that Maddie had possibly picked up in Mexico was not subsiding so we decided to take the day to just relax. After feeling a bit peckish around lunch, leaving Maddie to sleep, I met another guest in the house Elif, a turkish lady who was cycling around central and south america. She pointed me and Bec in the direction of a pizza shop just down the road. It was awesome. Once again a hole in the wall with a family cooking fresh small/medium sized pizzas. They were so good. Fresh crust, mountain of toppings and even a glass of mango juice. All this for less than $2. Winning in Cuba. After the small pizza shop Elif took us around to another food shop a short walk away to get a Bebidos Helados or an ice cream smoothie. They were also so good, cheap and refreshing in the hot weather. Maddie was not keen to do too much due to feeling unwell so we just chatted with Elif about her expeditions and took some photos of the streets of Havana. 

Streets of Havana

Looking towards the Malecon

After a restful day Maddie perked up a little and we decided to take a walk along the promenade but in the opposite direction from the previous night. We walked down and got a great view of the Malecon and of the main road ways in and out of the city centre. The sun was still beading down so we often stopped in shady spots watching children playing soccer, people playing music and the typical cuban smoking a cigar somewhere before heading back for some dinner and sleep.

Walking to the main square of the city we hopped on a double decker tour bus for the small fee of $5 CUC each. The tour took us around some of the major standpoints in Havana including the José Marti Memorial in the Revolution Plaza, Verdado where in the 1930’s during the great depression was a hot spot for gangsters such as Al Capone, a few beaches but all in all the tour was a little disappointing. Getting off the bus feeling a little disappointed we headed to the Museo de Revolution to indulge in it’s history. Wow, what a place, to learn and see how the revolution came about and all that has happened after was eye opening. 

Jose Marti Memorial

Off to work in Cuba

Street Market

The Richer part of Havana

Fidel and Che near Jose Marti Memorial

A Line of Old cars. So cool

We took in all that we could from the museum before heading to one of the hotels for wifi to attempt to make further arrangements out of Costa Rica as it stated we needed a ticket leaving from the country. We came up with nothing and the internet was very slow so we decided that hopefully our tickets out of Rio would be enough. 

Dinner was upon us and why not go back to a place that you know is cheap and good. So we headed back to the little house for another delicious and cheap meal before heading back to the Casa to pack our bags. 

It was an early start the next day around 4am and even Maritza our host woke up to call the taxi for us. She was so amazing throughout the whole stay, so if you’re ever in Cuba go and stay with this Lady on San Miguel st. We made our way to the airport a little nervous that we may not get our tickets as we were yet to have a departure out of Costa Rica. We arrived at the desk and the man behind the counter asked exactly that, “Do you have a date and ticket to leave Costa Rica?”. We stated “NO” explained the situation and showed him our ticket from Rio to Australia. He seemed happy and we were away. Costa Rica here we come.

Peace Out

Love Andy and Maddie

Mexico City

After a very long wait in LAX we boarded our plane at 1140pm bound for Mexico City. Arriving at Mexico City airport was fairly simple. Immigration process was easy, Buenos dias (good day), Bievenidos, welcome to the country and we’re in! Customs however was a little interesting. You stand in line, press a button which gives you a red light or green light. Andy was fine he got green, I got searched. Meh, oh well! We went to the taxi stand and we were of into the crazy city. At 6:30am you’d think the traffic would be a little on the lighter side but not in Mexico City. Just hold on for dear life and hope to god your driver doesn’t crash in to anything or get crashed in to. There’s no such thing as lanes, traffic lights don’t mean anything and indicators, what are they?? When you’re in a different country, have no idea where you’re going and speak poquito español (a little Spanish) is a very strange feeling but we were so excited to be in Mexico. We arrived at Hostel Joven Mundo Catedral which was located right in the Heart of the city. We were knackered to say the least so we were hoping we could check in early but that was not going to be. We had to wait until 2:30pm. We stored our stuff and went in search of food. The hostel recommended a 24hour place very close to get some local treats. The language barrier was difficult but we managed to order some delicious food and coffee. At this point Andy was becoming very good at understanding Spanish and speaking a little. With full bellies we went back to the hostel to try and sleep. We were able to rest our heads on some couches in the common room. Andy managed a few hours but for me it was not going to be. We finally checked in took our bags up and headed back down stairs to watch the world cup semi final.  Brasil vs Germany oh dear what a disappointment and embarrassing for the Brazilians. Well it was now my turn to get some rest, I showered and climbed in to bed for a few hours shut eye before heading back out to the airport to meet Bec Bec. Her flight was an hour delayed but we passed the time in Starbucks, good old American influence, using their wifi. After the excitement of her being here with us we all hit the hay.

The next day we planned. We had absolutely no idea where to go next. My thoughts initially was to head to Central America. We had rolled some ideas around and finally settled on Cuba. We booked flights and enjoyed the rest of the day. We wandered around the area surrounding the hostel, the streets were lined with people selling everything from batteries to razor blades hand bags and shoes. I’m not sure they were allowed to do this because at one point someone whistled very loudly as the police came walking up the road and everyone scrambled. People in Mexico whistle for everything. Whether it be to get someones attention, notify that the police are coming or if a hot chic walks by. Every sound means something different. We wandered in to a supermarket to get some essentials and food for the BBQ being held at the hostel later. We could not find any fresh meat unfortunately but we managed to find some frozen hamburgers and veges. continuing on around the block Andy and I were feeling a bit peckish, we found a little food street and bought some handmade chicken enchiladas with chilli sauce. Absolutely delicious. In the afternoon we went on a free walking tour with Louis, a guy that works in the hostel. He took us to a small bar about 20min walk away to try a local drink called Pulque, made from fermented sap of Agave plants. Similar to Agua but dirty tasting. They mix it with all sorts of flavours including tomato, mango, chilli, celery and coconut. You could also have it natural but it really doesn’t have a good taste. We went onto a craft beer/restaurant where we were treated to a demonstration on how to make proper Guacamole using a mortar and pestle made from volcanic rock, we were given grasshoppers, salted fish, tortillas with chicken and to top it all off a craft beer. The highlight was probably the shot of tequila we had. This is 100% (agave) tequila mixed with coffee liquor and set on fire. You have to drink it through a straw and you have to do this quickly as the straw starts to melt. Well lets just say that any more than one shot of this stuff and I would’ve been on the floor drunk. Felling a little tipsy we went back to the roof top bar at the hostel where we continued drinking in to the wee hours. Bec and I went on a mission to find some Vodka so we didn’t have to pay for drinks, this was certainly a mission. Louis told us where we could find a bottle shop but do you think we could find it or find anyone that speaks english? At one point we had nearly all the staff at McDonalds trying to figure out what we wanted. It was very funny. I’m sure they were laughing at us, stupid tourists should learn some spanish. Anyway, we ended up going to a hookah bar about 20mins taxi ride away with some others from the hostel. Silly us didn’t take any ID but that didn’t seem to matter. We were patted down by security and in we went. Wednesday nights are apparently models night. So we were surrounded by tall good looking men and women listening to weird techno music. We had a couple of beers and dance some I even came away richer after finding 700 pesos (About $60) in the toilet. Lucky me! We got home around 2:30am and crashed out until 11am the next morning.

We got up, showered and headed out for what was to be one of the best days in Mexico. We jumped on the subway bound for Coyoacan, a trendy suburb just outside the city famous for churros, coffee and Casa Azul or Blue House  which was the home of a very famous artist, Frida Kahlo. Before going the Casa Azul we grabbed some tacos from a local street vendor. Again a little difficult with the language barrier but there was a young guy there who helped us out a little and then invited us to eat with him and his friend. Luis and Brenda, 20 and 21 year old students at a local university, Luis studying engineering and Brenda early childhood teaching. Luis secretly likes Brenda but she is very firm on mi amigos (My friend). We had luck with them and chatted a little in spanish and a little in English. Luis could speak a little english but Brenda couldn’t. So we all got to practice speaking to each other in our native languages. It was fun. They offered to take us to the blue house which was unexpected. It was such a lovely gesture and we were so appreciative of their local knowledge as well as Luis interpreting for us. It was very interesting learning about the tragic yet beautiful life of Frida. She got polio when she was young and then when she was a teenager was in an unfortunate accident where the bus she was travelling on was struck by a car and she sustained life altering injuries. In the accident a steel hand rail broke off and impaled her through her uterus and spine. She was unable to have children and she spent most of her life bound to a wheelchair or in bed. She had to wear specially designed splints and a plaster torso brace. Although she was always in so much pain she found some beauty in all the tragedy. She started painting mostly about her life and the way she perceived herself through other peoples eyes. A lot of her paintings were self portraits or portraits of others. She painted a lot of pieces about her inability to have children which was a very upsetting thing for her. Later in life she was breaking in to the fashion industry with her beautiful dresses she wore to cover her legs and hide her brace she wore lace and brightly coloured scarves. Her jewellery was always a talking point when she entered a room it was all about distracting people from her disfigured body. Her most noticeable and recognisable feature was her monobrow. 

Casa Azul

Funny Times

Frida's art

Her Death Mask

Frida Kahlo

Moving on we went for a wander around the streets of Couyacan. Luis and Brenda took us to the centre of the area on the way we purchased some delicious churros. None you’ve had will be this good. Filled with whatever sugary goodness you want. Chocolate, caramel, liquor, mango or pinã. So delicious and cheap. This is a very pretty area to just hang out have coffee or some lunch. We decided it was time to head back to the hostel. Tackle the subway at peak hour. Something you should all try if you ever come here. Mexico City has one of the best designed public transport systems we’ve seen. You never wait any longer than 5 mins for a train but they do get very crowded. Well they do have to accommodate the 21 million people who live and work in Mexico City. Luis’s advice, push to get on and push push push to off or you’ll be left behind or get pushed back on to the train missing your stop. This is not for the faint at heart. It is hot and stuffy on those trains but again something that needs to be experienced. Saying our goodbyes to Brenda and Luis we organised to meet up the following day.

We were up bright and early ready for our bus tour and visiting the Museum of anthropology. Luis and Brenda met us there and again were our gracious hosts and interpreters for the day. We learned all about the history of Mexico and it’s people including the mayan culture. A must see in Mexico City. You do need a good amount of time to get through it all as it’s massive.

Mayan Stonework

Wall Art

Crazy Mexican's doing some spinning around whilst music is being played. They start from the top and work their way down to the ground

Mayan Headdress

Painting of Prehistoric Animals

The wall of Faces. Many different cultures and how evolution has changed skulls and faces

 Afterward we finished our bus tour around the city. We said our farewells to Brenda but Luis was going to meet us after for a drink and dinner. 

Revolution Square

National Art Museum

Angel of Independence

We went to a roof top restaurant for some delicious local cuisine. Luis chose some things off the menu for us to try. The food was so tasty. We had organised to go to the Mexican wrestling so we had to be getting back. We had a beer at the hostel and met up with some others that were going also. We wandered out the front with everyone and thought were participating in an “organised tour” with a tour company. Well thats what we were meant to be doing but there was a whole lot of confusion when we realised we were with the wrong group. We went to the subway and were led by a couple of guys from the hostel who really didn’t know where we or they were going. Asking a few people ion the way we found ourselves at the wrestling being asked to purchase tickets to get in. Now we had already purchased tickets and thought we were on a tour but this was not the case. We were meant to meet a tour guide at the hostel at 8pm which was the same time this group was leaving so we just tagged along thinking it was the tour. We had to purchase more tickets once we realised it wasn’t the organised tour at all but just a group of people from the hostel and decided to go along. Oh well shit happens. We took our seats for the show and laughed our heads off at the ridiculous scripted wrestling. The women were the funniest with their boobs out and hair all blowing in the wind. drinking beer and cheering loudly as these performers showed off their amazing acrobatic skills. Some wore the traditional masks whilst others wore skimpy little shorts showing off their heavily sculpted bodies and beautifully tamed hair. 

Wrestling

Despite the mix up we had a great time. The next day we tried to explain what happened to the tour operator maybe get a little bit of money back but unfortunately 3 other people from a different hostel missed out which we felt very bad about. A very honest mistake.                

The next day we ventured out early heading out of the city to see the Mayan pyramids, Teotihuacan, the oldest and largest of the prehispanic era. There were 3 main temples surrounded by a village. Temple of the Sun (La Suna) the moon (La Lunar) temple and the Jaguar temple. The sun Temple was the largest situated in the centre of the “town” towering 75m above the ground. To get to the top was a mighty climb and the stairs were very steep. also keeping in mind that Mexico City is already at 2240 metres so its an even harder slog getting up those stairs. But the view was magnificent. 

Avenue of the Dead

Pyramid of the Sun

Pyramid of the Moon

Avenue of the Dead and Pyramid of the Sun. Shot Taken from the top of the Pyramid of the Moon

Pyramid of the Sun (Closest) and Pyramid of the Moon. Taken from the Center of Teotihuacan 

On top of the Pyramid of the Sun

Rock/Stone work in Teotihuacan

Coming down you are instantly greeted by locals trying to sell little trinkets and jewellery including these whistle things that make a noise like a bird or a jaguar. They scared the shit out of me every time especially when the merchant does it in your ear. We ventured back to city after a day of exploring. I was feeling a little weary so I went back to the hostel to pack my things and prepare for our leaving the next day. Andy and Bec decided to go up the tallest tower to take some photos of the city at night and the cathedral. Apparently they lights went on for as far as the eye could see. This city is huge and wonderful. 

Mexico City

Mexico City with Moon

Mundo Cathedral

Mexico City is a fascinating place with so much happening and so much to do. I feel like I could write so much about this city. To document everything we saw I would be writing a novel. Saying our farewells to Mexico City after the most awful sleep we hopped on a plane bound for La Havana, Cuba. Excitement plus!   

Peace Out
Love Andy and Maddie xxoo